Discover Frank Church Wilderness: Top Hiking & Backpacking Trails
Are you dreaming of vast, untouched landscapes and challenging trails? The Frank Church–River of No Return Wilderness offers just that, making it a hiker and backpacker’s paradise. Thinking of heading out on the trails for some of the Frank Church–River of No Return Wilderness best hiking and backpacking trails?
There are many hikes and backpacking trails in this enormous wilderness area. Proper planning is essential for a safe and rewarding experience in this remote region.
Let’s explore the history, best trails, and essential planning tips for your adventure.
Table of Contents
A Brief History of the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness
Located in central Idaho, the Frank Church–River of No Return Wilderness is characterized by rugged mountains, deep canyons, and wild rivers.
Indigenous peoples, including the Nez Perce and Shoshone-Bannock tribes, have inhabited this area for thousands of years. The Salmon River is rich in artifacts and pictographs, indicating human presence dating back 8,000–10,000 years. The challenging terrain provided a natural refuge, fostering a deep cultural connection to the land.
The “River of No Return”
The Lewis and Clark Expedition encountered the Salmon River in 1805. They famously named it the “River of No Return” due to its treacherous currents.
The Idaho Gold Rush in the 1800s brought fur trappers and miners to the area. Boom towns briefly appeared but quickly faded, leaving behind ghost towns and faint trails in the remote wilderness.
These harsh conditions limited settlement.
Conservation Efforts
As the nation began prioritizing the protection of public lands, this wild region gained recognition. The U.S. Forest Service established the Idaho Primitive Area in 1931, encompassing 1.09 million acres.
The 1964 Wilderness Act further expanded protection. In 1980, Congress officially designated the River of No Return Wilderness, combining the Idaho Primitive Area with adjacent lands.
This created a vast, interconnected wilderness of nearly 2.4 million acres.
Honoring Senator Frank Church
The wilderness was renamed in 1984 to honor Senator Frank Church, a staunch advocate for wilderness preservation. He had passed in April of that year.
Today, much of this area remains untouched, devoid of roads or permanent structures, aside from a few historical cabins. The U.S. Forest Service manages the wilderness, and 236 miles of the Salmon River are protected under the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act.
Middle Fork Salmon River Graphic Hoodie
Outdoor Apparel designed for a Frank Church River of No Return Adventure. Both Middle Fork Salmon Graphic Hoodie and Alpine Lake Graphic Hoodie are a UPF-50 with a sewn in Facemask for add protection from the wind and sun.
Alpine Lake Graphic Hoodie
Text content
Hiking Langer Lake Trail
If you want a shorter hike, check out the Langer Lake Trail. It is also great for an overnight trip. This 4.1-mile round trip is moderate in difficulty. You’ll climb 1,066 feet in elevation. The trail leads to Langer Lake. It also goes to a fire lookout tower on Ruffneck Peak. That peak sits at 9,367 feet. The views are amazing up there.
On the way, you’ll pass Langer and Island Lakes. Both have peaceful campsites. From the top, you can see a bunch of mountain ranges. These include the Sawtooth, White Cloud, Salmon River, and Boise ranges. It’s a real treat for the eyes. This Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness trail is easy to get to but still feels wild.
What makes this trail so great?
- Good camping spots.
- Stunning 360-degree views.
- It’s easy to get to, but it’s still wild.
The Langer Lake Trail gives you a taste of the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness without a super long hike. It’s a good choice if you want big views and a shorter trip. It is one of the best hiking and backpacking trails in the area. Plan your hiking trip to this Idaho gem.
Hiking Yellowjacket Lake Trail
The Yellowjacket Lake Trail is a good choice for a multi-day trip. It’s a peaceful hike. You’ll see wildflowers and a big waterfall. This Frank Church–River of No Return Wilderness trail is less crowded. It is perfect if you want a quieter hike. The hike is 18.9 miles round trip with a 2,073 feet elevation gain. This makes the hike moderate.
You start at the old Yellow Jacket Ranger Station. From there, you follow a creek. The creek flows through meadows filled with wildflowers. You’ll see a beautiful waterfall on the way to Yellowjacket Lake. The natural beauty is rich here.
What makes this trail special?
- It’s not very crowded.
- It is full of natural beauty.
- It is good for a 2–3 day backpacking trip.
- You can see lots of wildflowers.
The Frank Church–River of No Return Wilderness has many hiking trails. Yellowjacket Lake Trail offers a more relaxed adventure. This trail shows off Idaho’s wild side. You get a real feel for the wilderness. It is a good way to get away and enjoy nature.
Bighorn Crags: Idaho’s Rugged Beauty
The Bighorn Crags area, accessible from Crags Campground, is known for its high-mountain scenery and numerous lakes.
Trails in the Crags area lead to destinations like Cathedral Rock and Ship Island Lake. The hike to Cathedral Lake is about 8.8 miles.
You might enjoy fly fishing for Golden Trout in some of the area’s most beautiful lakes.
Middle Fork Salmon River Trail: River and Wilderness Mix
For a truly immersive experience, consider the Middle Fork Salmon River Trail, which spans nearly 100 miles one way. You could encounter some hot springs along the way.
The trail follows the river, blending hiking with the river’s vibrant culture. You’re likely to encounter rafters along the route. Early summer conditions can be difficult due to runoff.
Summer temperatures frequently exceed 90 degrees. The dry, gravelly soil contributes to a desert-like environment on this wilderness trail.
Another great adventure is to raft the Middle Fork Salmon River.
Loon Creek to Horseshoe Lake: Hot Springs and Wolves
This approximately 19-mile out-and-back route follows Loon Creek to Horseshoe Lake. The area is known for the popular Loon Creek Hot Springs.
Be prepared for a more secluded trek. Trails branching off the main paths are often less maintained, leading to downed logs and obscured trails.
Wolves also call this area home, so be prepared with bear spray, even if just for the wolves.
Lower Salmon River Trail: Mellow and Flexible
This 7.8-mile trail offers multiple riverside camping sites. It can be linked with other trails for a flexible itinerary.
One experienced backpacker recommends a 10-mile hike along this path. It’s a good way to get familiar with the terrain.
Text content
Waterfall Canyon Route: Explore Saved Canyons
Explore the stunning Waterfall Canyon route, known for its dramatic landscapes and challenging terrain. This area showcases the rugged beauty of the wilderness, with steep canyons and breathtaking views.
The main access points provide a starting point for a variety of hikes, from moderate day trips to strenuous multi-day treks. Ensure you are prepared for significant elevation gain and potentially difficult trail conditions.
The Clear Creek Ridge route and the Creek Ridge route offer exceptional panoramic views of the surrounding wilderness.
Here are some more interesting trail in a digestible table format for planning your hiking expeditions:
|
Trail Name |
Distance (miles) |
Difficulty |
Special Features |
|
Langer Lake Trail |
4.1 (round trip) |
Moderate |
Views, multiple mountain ranges, Wilson Lake |
|
Yellowjacket Lake Trail |
18.9 (round trip) |
Moderate |
Peaceful meadows, waterfalls |
|
Ship Island Lake Trail |
13.1 (round trip) |
Moderate |
Rugged mountain peaks, Golden Trout, Beautiful Lakes High |
|
Middle Fork Salmon River Trail |
95.3 (one way) |
Difficult |
River hikes, Hot Springs, Middle Fork |
|
Clear Creek Ridge Route |
17.7 (one way) |
Hard |
Clear Creek, Fir Creek Campground, Waterfall Canyon |
Frank Church–River of No Return Wilderness best hiking and backpacking trails Key Considerations
Trails often fade or become obstructed by fallen trees. Navigating around, over, or under these obstacles is a common challenge.
A Backpacking Light forum post highlights the challenges in the Frank Church Wilderness. It is known for its steep valleys and dense brush.
Solo hiking is possible but comes with increased risks in this backcountry setting. Hikers need to carefully evaluate their abilities and the conditions before proceeding.
Tips for Safe Hiking in the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness
Here are some important tips for having a fun and safe adventure on the Frank Church–River of No Return Wilderness best hiking and backpacking trails:
- Plan your trip around the seasons. Wildflowers bloom in late spring along lower trails. High-country hiking becomes accessible in the summer.
- While hiking permits aren’t required, group size is limited to 20 people, with a maximum stay of 14 days. Rafting on the Middle Fork requires a permit.
- Expect challenging trail conditions, including faint paths and deadfall to navigate.
- Carry a detailed map, GPS, and the guidebook *Trails of the Frank Church–River of No Return Wilderness* by Margaret Fuller.
- Access can be difficult, often requiring high-clearance vehicles.
- Be aware of wildlife, including bears and wolves. Carry bear spray and store food properly. Bring reliable navigation and communication tools.
In the Big Horn Crags area, take advantage of the Fir Creek Campground for convenient access to nearby trails. The Crags Campground is another main access point, offering a base for exploring the high route and lakes high above.
Fly Fishing Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness
The Frank Church–River of No Return Wilderness is a dream for anglers. The Salmon River and its Middle Fork are famous. They are known for their clear waters and strong fish. Fly fishing Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness is something special.
The Middle Fork Salmon River is a designated Wild and Scenic River. It offers over 100 miles of prime fishing habitat. You can find Westslope cutthroat trout, rainbow trout, and bull trout here. This area is remote. It offers a true wilderness fishing trip.
The main Salmon River, also called “The River of No Return,” has great fishing too. It’s bigger and has different types of water. You might catch Chinook salmon, steelhead, and smallmouth bass. Different spots along the river offer various fishing experiences.
Here’s what to expect when fly fishing here:
- Wild and Scenic Rivers: These waters are protected. They stay natural and clean.
- Variety of Fish: Find many trout species. Salmon and steelhead are also in the main river.
- Remote Setting: You’ll be far from crowds. It’s a peaceful place to fish.
- Challenging Access: Getting there can take work. Some areas need boats or long hikes. Hiking and Backpacking is an option.
- Best Times to Go: Summer and fall are usually best. The water levels and weather are good for fishing.
Many hiking trails lead to good fishing spots. The Middle Fork Salmon River Trail is a popular choice. Backpacking lets you get to even more remote areas.
Before you go, get the right permits and licenses. The Forest Service manages this area. They can give you the information you need. Because it’s so wild, plan your trip carefully. Bring the right gear and know how to handle the wilderness.
with native trout. While the Salmon River and its Middle Fork often steal the spotlight for river fishing, the wilderness is dotted with high-country lakes that offer exceptional fly fishing opportunities, especially for those willing to hike or pack in. These lakes are known for their solitude, stunning scenery, and healthy populations of cutthroat, rainbow, and brook trout. Here’s a rundown of some of the best fly fishing lakes in the wilderness, based on their fish populations, accessibility, and reputation among anglers.
Six Weight Nine Foot Fly Rod
Fly rod I use most of the time is a 9′ 6-weight fly rod with many variables in-between. Like flies, I always have woolly buggers in various sizes and styles. As well as plenty of nymphs.
Woolly Buggers
Soft Hackle Pheasant Tail Nymph
Best Fly Fishing Lakes in Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness
The Frank Church–River of No Return Wilderness in Idaho is a fly fishing paradise, with its pristine alpine lakes, remote streams, and wild rivers teeming with native trout. While the Salmon River and its Middle Fork often steal the spotlight for river fishing, the wilderness is dotted with high-country lakes that offer exceptional fly fishing opportunities, especially for those willing to hike or pack in. These lakes are known for their solitude, stunning scenery, and healthy populations of cutthroat, rainbow, and brook trout. Here’s a rundown of some of the best fly fishing lakes in the wilderness, based on their fish populations, accessibility, and reputation among anglers.
Top Fly Fishing Lakes
- Ship Island Lake (Bighorn Crags)
- Location: Eastern part of the wilderness, near Crags Campground
- Distance: 13.1 miles round trip from the trailhead
- Fish Species: Cutthroat trout, rainbow trout
- Highlights: The largest lake in the Bighorn Crags, Ship Island is a gem for fly anglers. Surrounded by jagged granite peaks, it’s stocked naturally with cutthroat and rainbow trout that thrive in its clear, cold waters. The lake’s size (over 200 acres) and depth support a robust fishery, and fish are known to rise eagerly to dry flies like Adams or elk hair caddis.
- Why It’s Great: Remote and scenic, with consistent action for 10–14-inch trout. Late summer (July–August) is prime time when snowmelt subsides and fish are active.
- Access Tip: Hike in from the Crags Campground trailhead (2–3 hours one way); pack light for an overnight stay.
- Cathedral Lake (Bighorn Crags)
- Location: Near Ship Island Lake in the Bighorn Crags
- Distance: 8.8 miles round trip to Cathedral Lake
- Fish Species: Cutthroat trout, brook trout
- Highlights: Smaller than Ship Island but equally stunning, Cathedral Lake sits at 8,400 feet beneath Cathedral Rock. It’s home to feisty cutthroat and brook trout, with fish averaging 8–12 inches. The clear water makes sight fishing possible, and terrestrials (ants, hoppers) work well along the grassy shores.
- Why It’s Great: A shorter hike than Ship Island, with solitude and eager fish. The surrounding granite spires add a dramatic backdrop.
- Access Tip: Same trailhead as Ship Island; it’s a good day trip or overnight option.
- Yellowjacket Lake
- Location: Central wilderness, near Yellow Jacket Ranger Station
- Distance: 18.9 miles round trip
- Fish Species: Rainbow trout, cutthroat trout
- Highlights: Nestled in a meadowed basin with a waterfall feeding it, Yellowjacket Lake is a scenic spot with a solid population of rainbow and cutthroat trout. Fish here can reach 12–16 inches, feeding on midges and mayflies. The lake’s remoteness keeps pressure low, making for a rewarding experience.
- Why It’s Great: Less trafficked than the Crags lakes, offering a true wilderness feel. The trail’s wildflower meadows and creek crossings add to the journey.
- Access Tip: Long hike in (9+ miles one way), so plan for a multi-day trip; late summer avoids muddy trails.
- Horseshoe Lake (Loon Creek Area)
- Location: Western wilderness, along Loon Creek
- Distance: 19.2 miles round trip
- Fish Species: Cutthroat trout, brook trout
- Highlights: Reached via the Loon Creek trail, Horseshoe Lake is a quiet, forested lake with healthy cutthroat and brook trout populations. Fish average 10–14 inches and respond well to small nymphs and dry flies like parachutes or Royal Wulffs. Nearby hot springs add a bonus for post-fishing relaxation.
- Why It’s Great: Combines fishing with a soak in natural hot springs, plus a chance to spot wildlife like wolves or elk.
- Access Tip: Start at Loon Creek Guard Station; it’s a strenuous trek, best as a 2–3 day trip.
- Mirror Lake (Bighorn Crags)
- Location: Part of the Bighorn Crags lake network
- Distance: ~10–12 miles round trip (varies by route)
- Fish Species: Cutthroat trout, rainbow trout
- Highlights: Tucked between towering peaks, Mirror Lake lives up to its name with crystal-clear water reflecting the rugged landscape. It’s stocked with cutthroat and rainbow trout, averaging 8–12 inches, though larger fish lurk in deeper sections. Dry-dropper rigs (e.g., a hopper with a pheasant tail nymph) can be deadly here.
- Why It’s Great: Photogenic and fish-filled, with nearby lakes like Birdbill for variety. Ideal for a multi-day Crags adventure.
- Access Tip: Accessible via the same trail system as Ship Island and Cathedral; extend your trip to hit multiple lakes.
- Langer Lake
- Location: Near Ruffneck Peak, central wilderness
- Distance: 4.1 miles round trip
- Fish Species: Brook trout, cutthroat trout
- Highlights: A smaller, easier-to-reach lake, Langer sits at 8,600 feet near a fire lookout tower. It’s stocked with brook and cutthroat trout, typically 8–10 inches, that hit small flies like blue-winged olives or woolly buggers. The short hike makes it a great day-trip option.
- Why It’s Great: Quick access to high-country fishing, with bonus views from Ruffneck Peak.
- Access Tip: Trailhead near Hood Ranch airstrip; manageable as a day hike or overnight.
Why These Lakes Stand Out
The Frank Church’s lakes offer a rare blend of solitude and quality fishing. The Bighorn Crags trio (Ship Island, Cathedral, Mirror) are standouts for their scenery and trout, while Yellowjacket and Horseshoe add seclusion and unique features like waterfalls or hot springs. Langer provides an easier entry point. With no roads or crowds, you’re fishing waters that feel as wild as they did centuries ago—perfect for anglers seeking adventure and a bent rod in Idaho’s untamed heart
FAQs about Frank Church–River of No Return Wilderness best hiking and backpacking trails
What is the best backpacking trip?
The ideal trip depends on individual preferences and experience. The Bighorn Crags area offers significant rewards with shorter trips, and has many amazing and beautiful views.
For those with more time, the Middle Fork Salmon River Trail provides a deeper immersion into the wilderness. You will find incredible solitude and scenery there.
For those looking for something a little less intense, consider Marsh Creek or even exploring around Bear Valley Hot Springs and taking advantage of the many camping sites.
How do I get to Frank Church Wilderness?
Accessing the trails often involves long drives on gravel roads. For example, reaching the Bighorn Crags from Salmon can take over two hours.
The Salmon-Challis National Forest provides many easy access points and some moderate trails, which are popular.
What river runs through Frank Church Wilderness?
The Salmon River flows through the heart of the wilderness. It was historically known as “The River of No Return.”
What river is in the river of no return?
This is simply an alternate name for the Salmon River. There is also the Middle Fork Salmon River that runs nearby too.
Conclusion of Frank Church River of No Return
Exploring this vast wilderness requires careful planning and effort. It can also deliver an incredibly rewarding experience.
With its diverse wildlife and rugged terrain, the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness offers a unique sense of scale and solitude. One excellent way to experience the area is by joining a guided float trip, like those offered by Middle Fork Rapid Transit..
Whether you’re a novice or an experienced hiker, the Frank Church–River of No Return Wilderness best hiking and backpacking trails offer a true taste of wild Idaho. Be sure to check out the Bighorn Crags and surrounding lakes high up, like Mirror Lakes and Harbor Lake.
